Vintners and VIPs have divine time at Mondavi's birthday

By MICHELLE LOCKE
Associated Press Writer

OAKVILLE, Calif. (AP) Jazz legend Dave Brubeck played a swinging ``Happy Birthday'' and Tommy Smothers was a yo-yo wielding master of ceremonies as vintners and VIPs toasted Robert Mondavi's 90th birthday.

``He is a genuine legend,'' said Gov. Gray Davis, who was among the 1,700 guests circulating on the sunny lawns of the Robert Mondavi Winery and sipping Mondavi wines during the big bash Wednesday night.

Mondavi, who looks back on a career that runs from the last sputterings of Prohibition to the renaissance of California wine, is known for spreading his then-revolutionary idea that Napa Valley wines could compete with the greats of Europe and that Americans could be persuaded to look at wine as part of daily life rather than a white tablecloth indulgence.

Nibbling on munchies from such famous Napa Valley cooks as Thomas Keller of the French Laundry, guests thronged the grounds of Mondavi's Mission-style winery for the big event.

One guest was missing, Mondavi's sister Helen Mondavi Ventura, who died last Friday at age 91. Helen was the first of the four Mondavi children to die; the oldest, Mary Westbrook, is 93 and Peter is 88.

Robert Mondavi's older son, Michael, led guests in a toast to ``our aunt, who is here with us in spirit,'' before toasting his dad and wishing him ``100 years.'' Joining the toast were Mondavi's other children, Tim and Marcia, along with a number of grandchildren.

Davis declared June 18 to be Robert Mondavi Day in California and told the wine patriarch, ``I just want to say on behalf of 35 million people, how proud we are of you.''

Mondavi held the floor for some time, thanking everyone from restaurants that carry his wine to his wife, Margrit Biever Mondavi.

``Believe it or not I have reached the age of 90. That is 32,850 days of beautiful living,'' he said. In his typical nonchalant style, Mondavi informed the crowd that his doctors have told him he has the health of a 60-year-old, ``and they said the people of 60 would be happy to have what you have.''

``Now, with the moral support of all of you, you'll help me reach the good old figure of 100 years,'' he said.

``One hundred and twenty,'' yelled someone from the crowd.

``I'm working on it,'' shot back Mondavi.

Davis wasn't the only famous name at the party. Former Gov. Pete Wilson was there as was another wine patriarch, 93-year-old Ernest Gallo.

Smothers and Tim Mondavi worked out a comedy routine of sorts as the winemaker's son riffed on the old ``Mom loved you best'' Smothers Brothers routine, claiming Smothers was the heretofore unknown Mondavi sibling that ``Dad always liked best.''

``Thank you, Tim, that was invigorating, a great change of pace,'' a deadpan Smothers said.

After Tim Mondavi made about his third attempt at the joke, performed with more enthusiasm than finesse, Smothers milked a laugh with the dry remark, ``You have incredible timing.''

Smothers also brought his ``Yo-Yo Man'' persona to the party, ripping off a series of flawless tricks for the elder Mondavi.

Mondavi started his own winery in 1966 after a fight with younger brother Peter forced him out of the family's Charles Krug Winery. The two have since reconciled; Peter was on hand to help celebrate his older brother's birthday.

Always a pioneer, Mondavi is known for pushing new techniques such as cold fermentation and using French oak barrels. Today, Robert Mondavi Corp. is worth about $450 million and the Robert Mondavi Family has partnerships with wineries in France, Italy, Chile and Australia.

``My job wouldn't exist if it wasn't for Bob Mondavi and what he did for the wine industry,'' said Agustin F. Huneeus, president of the Franciscan Estates, a group of wineries. ``I'm just glad he was here. Had he moved into Sonoma, Sonoma would have been Napa.''

Another party guest, Napa Mayor Ed Henderson, had his own Mondavi story to tell. Henderson said he and wife, Marie, had visited Italy and had trouble finding a wine to their liking until they finally reached one winemaker who had just the right touch.

The mayor was curious, Where had he learned his craft? It turns out, said Henderson, ``he was trained by Robert Mondavi!''

^On the Net: http://www.mondavi.com

(Copyright 2003 by The Associated Press. All Rights Reserved.)